Replacing a CV axle (constant-velocity driveshaft) on a Land Rover is a job most competent home mechanics can do in an afternoon with the right parts and a decent torque wrench. On a Freelander, Discovery or Range Rover you're realistically looking at R1,800 to R4,500 for a good used or reconditioned complete driveshaft, plus a few hundred rand in consumables.
The most common reason you're reading this is a clicking noise on full lock or a split CV boot flinging grease around the inside of your wheel arch. Catch a torn boot early and you may only need a boot kit. Leave it, and grit destroys the joint and you're buying the whole shaft. Below is how the job is done, the torque figures that actually matter, and what the parts cost in South Africa.
- The number-one warning sign is a rhythmic clicking or knocking on full steering lock — that's a worn outer CV joint, not a wheel bearing.
- A split or leaking CV boot is the root cause of most failures — caught early it's a cheap boot kit; ignored, grit wrecks the joint within weeks.
- The hub nut torque is critical — most Land Rover hub nuts want roughly 300 to 400 Nm and a fresh nut, not the old one re-used.
- A complete used or reconditioned driveshaft (R1,800–R4,500) is usually better value than rebuilding a badly worn joint by hand.
- Plan for a wheel alignment afterwards and always replace the hub nut and, ideally, the lower ball-joint split pin or circlip.
Spotting a failing CV joint or torn boot
The classic symptom of a worn outer CV joint is a rhythmic clicking or knocking that gets louder as you turn the steering onto full lock and pull away — reversing in a tight circle is the surest test. A worn inner joint tends to give a clunk or shudder under hard acceleration from a standstill instead. Don't confuse either with a droning wheel bearing, which changes pitch with road speed, not steering angle.
The earliest warning of all is a split rubber CV boot: once the boot tears, the grease slings out across the inside of the wheel and the arch, and road grit and water pour straight into the joint.
On the Land Rover Freelander and the Freelander 2 the outer boots are a known wear item, partly because the front driveshafts see a lot of steering angle on a short-wheelbase car. If you spot a fresh grease splatter on the inside of a tyre, get under the car and inspect both boots on that shaft before anything else.
What you'll need
You don't need a workshop full of specialist tools, but a few items are non-negotiable — chiefly a torque wrench that reaches 400 Nm, because guessing the hub nut is how people wreck a wheel bearing a month later. Here's the kit for a typical Land Rover front CV axle replacement:
- A complete replacement CV axle (or a boot + grease kit if the joint is still tight)
- A large-capacity torque wrench (up to ~450 Nm) and a breaker bar to crack the hub nut loose
- The correct hub-nut socket (commonly 30–36 mm on Land Rover applications — check yours)
- A ball-joint separator or a soft-faced hammer, plus penetrating fluid
- A trolley jack and two axle stands — never work under a car on the jack alone
- A new hub nut and split pin/circlip, brake cleaner, and a tub of moly CV grease if you're doing a boot only
Land Rover CV Axles & Driveshafts
Tested used and reconditioned front and rear CV axles for Freelander, Discovery and Range Rover — complete shafts and boot kits. Send us your VIN and side (left or right) and we'll match the exact unit.
Get a QuoteStep-by-step: replacing the CV axle
Work methodically and the whole job takes two to three hours the first time. The single most important rule: crack the hub nut loose with the wheel still on the ground, because you cannot safely hold the hub still once the car is in the air.
- Loosen the hub nut on the ground. With the wheel still bearing weight, prise off the dust cap, straighten and remove the split pin, then crack the large hub nut loose with a breaker bar. It's tight — often torqued past 350 Nm from the factory.
- Lift and support the car. Loosen the wheel bolts, jack the front up, drop it onto axle stands and remove the road wheel.
- Free the outer joint. Fully remove the hub nut. Separate the lower ball joint (or track-rod end, depending on model) so the hub can swing outward, then push the outer CV stub back out of the hub splines. A few taps with a soft-faced hammer usually frees it.
- Release the inner joint. On most Land Rover applications the inner joint pulls out of the gearbox or IRD/differential with a firm straight tug — there's a circlip that pops free. Expect a little oil to weep; have a drip tray ready.
- Fit the new shaft. Slide the inner joint home until the circlip clicks into place, then guide the outer stub through the hub. Refit the ball joint and a fresh split pin or nut.
- Torque the hub nut. Fit a new hub nut, lower the car so the wheel is loaded, and torque to the model figure — typically 300–400 Nm — then fit a new split pin. Top up any lost gearbox/IRD oil and take a gentle test drive.
How much does a CV axle cost in SA?
Here's what a Land Rover CV axle job realistically runs at an independent workshop using quality used or reconditioned parts — not main-dealer pricing. Your exact figure depends on model, which corner, and your labour rate; these are indicative ranges only, not quotes.
| Part | Typical price (used / recon) | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Complete front CV axle (Freelander) | R1,800 – R3,500 | Per side, tested unit |
| Complete driveshaft (Discovery / Range Rover) | R2,500 – R4,500 | Heavier-duty shaft |
| CV boot + grease kit | R350 – R900 | If joint still sound |
| New hub nut + split pin | R120 – R400 | Always renew |
| Wheel alignment (after fitting) | R450 – R850 | Recommended |
| Fitment labour (independent) | R900 – R1,800 | Per shaft |
Hub Nuts, Boots & Fitting Kits
New hub nuts, split pins, CV boot kits and moly grease to finish the job properly. We'll bundle the consumables with your driveshaft so nothing holds up the fit.
Get a QuoteTips, torque and common mistakes
Two things separate a job that lasts from one that comes back. First, the hub nut: it's a stretch-to-yield or staked nut on many Land Rover applications, so re-using the old one and under-torquing it is the classic error that ruins a fresh wheel bearing within a few thousand kilometres. Fit a new nut and torque to the model figure — usually somewhere between 300 and 400 Nm — then secure the split pin.
Second, don't run a joint with a torn boot "just for now". Once grit is inside, the joint is on borrowed time. If you're already under there with the hub apart, it's the perfect moment to check tie-rod ends and the rest of your Land Rover suspension parts, and if the ride feels tired, look at your dampers too — our guide to replacing Land Rover shock absorbers covers that job.
Always finish with a wheel alignment, because separating the ball joint or track-rod end disturbs your toe setting.
Workshop tip
Mark the inner-joint-to-gearbox position with a paint pen before you pull the shaft. It makes lining up the splines on refit far quicker, and confirms the circlip has fully seated when your mark returns to the same spot.
Watch out
Never let the CV shaft hang by the inner joint or over-extend it — on Freelander and IRD-equipped models you can pop the tripod rollers out of the cup and lose the needle bearings. Support the shaft as you remove it.
Before you buy parts
Clicking on full lock is the last warning, not the first. The first is a split boot flinging grease around the inner arch, and caught at that stage it is a boot kit and an afternoon of work. Left running, grit gets into the joint and the whole shaft becomes scrap. Check both sides before ordering, because owners routinely assume both have gone when only one is making noise. On a Freelander or a Discovery a tested complete shaft is the sensible route rather than an outer joint on its own, and the hub nut is a one-use item, so order one with it.
Need a Land Rover CV axle? Get a quote.
We supply used and reconditioned Land Rover driveshafts, CV joints, boot kits and hub nuts across South Africa — Freelander, Discovery and Range Rover — with nationwide delivery. Send us your VIN, the side and the corner you need.
Frequently asked questions
How do I know if my Land Rover CV joint is worn?
The tell-tale sign is a rhythmic clicking or knocking on full steering lock, loudest when you accelerate through a tight turn or reverse in a circle. A worn inner joint clunks or shudders under hard acceleration from a stop.
If you also spot grease flung across the inside of the wheel or a split rubber boot, the joint is either failing or about to. A clicking noise that tracks steering angle rather than road speed is a CV joint, not a wheel bearing.
Can I just replace the CV boot instead of the whole axle?
Yes, if you catch it early. If the boot has only just split and the joint still feels tight with no clicking, a boot and grease kit for R350–R900 will save you buying a full shaft. But once the joint has been running dry or clicking, grit has already scored the bearings and a complete used or reconditioned driveshaft is the honest fix. We'll advise which way to go if you send us a photo of the boot.
What torque does the Land Rover hub nut need?
It varies by model, but most Land Rover front hub nuts want roughly 300 to 400 Nm, and many are single-use stretch or staked nuts that must be renewed. Under-torquing lets the bearing run loose and fail; over-torquing crushes it. Use a large torque wrench, fit a new nut, and always finish with a fresh split pin where fitted. If you're unsure of your exact figure, check the workshop manual for your model and engine.
Is a CV axle the same as a driveshaft?
In everyday South African workshop talk, yes — a "CV axle" is the complete front (or rear) driveshaft assembly with a constant-velocity joint at each end. On a Land Rover Freelander these are the shafts that drive the wheels through the hubs; on longer models like the Discovery the propshaft between the gearbox and axles is a separate part. When you quote us, tell us the model and which corner, so we send the right one.
How much does CV axle replacement cost in South Africa?
Using quality used or reconditioned parts at an independent workshop, budget roughly R1,800–R4,500 for the shaft depending on model, plus R120–R400 for a new hub nut and R900–R1,800 labour per side if you're not doing it yourself. A wheel alignment afterwards adds R450–R850. That's typically half to a third of main-dealer supply-and-fit pricing.
Do I need a wheel alignment after changing a CV axle?
Yes. Separating the lower ball joint or track-rod end to swing the hub out disturbs your toe setting, and driving on it uneven will scrub your tyres. It's a small cost relative to the axle itself and worth doing straight after. While the car's on the ramp it's also a sensible moment to check your brake discs — see our guide to Land Rover brake rotor replacement if there's any judder.
Sources
- Honest John — Land Rover Freelander owner-reported good & bad points: honestjohn.co.uk